A Death Valley Tale - Day 2

In this post: Bicycling in Death Valley, Furnace Creek Ranch

Map
Weather

Today we thought we'd tackle a 40 mile round-trip bike ride to Badwater. Biking in the Valley was fabulous, but the road consistently alternated between uphill and downhill.  We were never on a level grade.  It wasn't long before we started thinking, if half of our planned ride was going to be low speed uphill riding, 40 miles might be a bit too much for us.

It looked easy from here.

Ten miles into our ride we took the turnoff for Artist’s Palette.  The road immediately turned into a relentless 20% grade. We trudged along in our lowest gears for two miles. Finally, when we couldn’t peddle any further; we dismounted our bikes and forged ahead on foot, pushing our bikes alongside.

Two and a half miles of uphill and
we're still not at the top!

Unlike the day before, we were better prepared to fend for ourselves in the desert environment.  We had water, snacks, sunscreen and hats, but still didn't have a map. When the bike odometer showed we were 2½ miles from the main road and still climbing, I found myself trying to reconcile memories of maps and verbal descriptions of bike routes in Death Valley. The valley floor looked to be more than 2,000 feet below us now. Things weren't adding up to fit the“moderate bike ride” assessment I remembered reading back in our comfy room. Once again it crossed my mind that we might become characters in a modern Death Valley tale.


We reckoned we were at the point where turning back would be about the same distance as going forward. Thus convinced that every step was now taking us closer to a lounge chair at the pool, rather than further away, we continued on and presently came to a crest.

"The" crest, aka the highest point on the A.P. Loop

We could see the road wending through a barren plateau below, but there was no sign indicating we had reached a named pass, so we wondered, “Was this “the” crest or just a teaser?”

We mounted up once again and started down. At first, the uphill side of a few deep and steep dips disheartened us, but soon we were rocketing downhill through a narrow, twisting canyon.

Lunch stop at Artist's Palett

A few miles later, we stopped for a light lunch at a beautiful spot overlooking the colorful geology of Artist’s Palette.   When we continued on, the canyon narrowed, the turns became tighter and the road became steeper.  We braked hard for a sharp right turn marked by a “15 mph” caution sign and came to another steep uphill section.  This time there was no shoulder.  The road was bordered on both sides by vertical rock walls and very narrow.  Prudence (and tired legs) dictated we walk our bikes through this section, keeping as far to the side as we could.  Fortunately, it wasn’t long before we reached the steepest downhill section of the day.  We blasted out of the canyon, coasting at 30 miles an hour!  We spotted the Furnace Creek Ranch as we descended back to the main highway.  Once we reached the intersection, we knew the pool and Margaritas were just 6 ½ miles away!

Back at the Ranch, we settled in on the porch of the saloon with a couple of Margaritas. Janet recognized the bike shop manager as he walked by. We told him we had changed our minds about riding to Badwater and, thinking it would be easier, opted for the Artist’s Palette loop, instead. The look he gave us suggested we would soon be part of another Death Valley, “Stupid Tourist Tale.”

Gear Report
For this ride we brought along a few items we don't always carry: high pressure bicycle tire pump, water bottles filled with electrolyte replacement, bicycle multi-tool, tire patches, slim wrenches, inner tubes, set of nesting tire levers.  I've had the slim wrenches for years.  Everything else we picked up at REI before our Anza-Borrego trip earlier this year.


Polar Fitness Stats

Ages: 53 - 57

Activity: Bicycling (and a little walking/pushing)

Time: 4 hrs 12 min

Distance: 26 miles

Elevation: -200' to 900' (that's right, we started out at 200 feet below sea level)

Calories: 1364

Average Heart Rate: 97 

Max Heart Rate: 126

Comments: Although there are no bike lanes on this route, we felt safely visible almost all of the time and the few cars that passed us gave us wide berth.  One exception was a steep, uphill, rock-walled, one-way section after Artist's Palette that was so narrow, twisty and strewn with fallen rocks, that it seemed safest to walk our bikes on whichever side of the road gave cars coming up from behind the clearest view of us.
The hills on this ride gave our legs a work out.  Some were too tough for us to ride up today, so we pushed the bikes and walked along side.  Not too stylish, but we made it.  The scenery and fun downhill sections made it all worthwhile.
Challenge: Next time I hope we can ride all the way to the top of the 2½ mile long hill climb.